A Minimalist and Stylish Take on the Classic Overcoat
Problem
Create a custom garment designed to
fit our intended model.
Solution
A sleek, black overcoat with a
flair for the dramatic.
Design Inspiration
Using the work done by the late Massimo and Lella Vignelli as inspiration, a garment was to be constructed that represents a timeless take on their work. A big source of inspiration for this project was the Vignelli Clothing Manifesto and the various garments from the Vignelli's clothing line being preserved in the Vignelli Center at RIT. Their work to create timeless garments that live beyond the scope of fashion greatly influenced the overall design of the final garment.
Silhouette Exploration
During the course of the design process, it quickly became clear that editing down classic garments to the bare minimum while still being recognizable was the way to go. By taking classic silhouettes and distilling them down to their most basic form, they lose their place in the timeline of contemporary fashion and avoid trends to an extent. This methodology lead to the creation of concepts that feel connected to the Vignelli Canon but through a modern lense.
Concept Refinement
Using the silhouette exploration as the baseline going forward allowed for the further refinement of the final design. Nailing down the final features was key during this phase as they would serve as the template for the final garment. Further refining the placement of key features like the hidden paracord closures and the proportions of different aspects of the garment were essential to figuring out the final direction that the garment would take leading up to completion.
Pattern Making
Using the refined concept as the guidelines, a pattern was made using my own measurements to ensure the desired fit. Over the course of weeks, these patterns were tweaked with the help of several muslin prototypes. All of these prototypes helped to shape the final pattern to match the refined concept.
Final Prototype
The final prototype was the result of weeks of work, starting from the initial ideation based on the Vignelli design canon, all the way up to the last muslin prototype and the final tweaks to the patterns. Constructed using a 100% cotton twill suiting material as the primary fabric is an ode to the past, present, and future of tailored menswear. The double vented back and accompanying storm flap reference the history of English menswear, specifically in regards to trench coats and tailored suiting. By using these broad references instead of following contemporary trends, the resulting garment is a timeless piece that can be work without worry for the changing state of fashion trends.
https://vignellicenter.tumblr.com/post/108951505317/massimo-handwriting-clothing-manifesto
